The recipe comes from Elizabeth David’s pamphlet Syllabubs and Fruit Fools (which
also includes some delicious Scottish specialities). She traces the history of syllabubs back to
the seventeenth century. The simplest of
all was a pastoral affair, a picturesque treat for town visitors to the
country; a milkmaid would direct a stream of new warm milk into a bowl of
spiced cider or ale. After a while a
light curd formed on top, with a delicious whey underneath.
The more solid syllabub, the kind we eat today – the Everlasting
Syllabub as opposed to the milkmaid’s simple affair of milk and cider – also
goes back to the seventeenth century. In
grander kitchens, cream and wine were used, though Sir Kenelm Digby, in The Closet . . . Opened, his notebook of
recipes which was published after his death, in 1699, does remark that
concentrated fruit syrups could be substituted for the wine. They should be on the tart side, ‘very weak
of sugar.’
For 4-6
8 tablespoons (4 fl oz) white wine or sherry
2 tablespoons brandy
Pared rind and juice of 1 lemon
60 g (2 oz) sugar
300 ml (1/2 pt) double cream
Nutmeg
PUT the first three ingredients into a bowl and leave
overnight. Next day strain the liquid
into a bowl and stir in the sugar until it has dissolved. Still stirring, pour in the cream
slowly. Add finally a grating of nutmeg,
beat the syllabub with a wire whisk until it holds its shape – do not go on too
long, or too vigorously, or the cream will curdle and separate into a buttery
mass.
Spoon the syllabub into small glasses or custard cups – there is
enough for four to six people – and keep in a cool place (if possible, not the
refrigerator) for two days or more. Of
course they can be served straightaway, but it is usually more convenient to
make puddings in advance and this one keeps well. ‘A nice sprig of rosemary or a little twist
of lemon peel,’ can, as suggested by Sir Kenelm Digby, ‘be stuck into each little
filled glass.’ Serve with almond or sponge biscuits.
Elizabeth David
From Jane Grigson, English Food, London, Ebury Press,
1974.
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