A Pilgrim Dachshund's Progress (About A Boy)

“Half pound plain loaf”  :-  Half a pound of flour, two tea-spoonfuls of Yeatman’s powder, a salt-spoonful of salt, and four or five teaspoonfuls of water.  Work this as above*, reserving the baking powder to the last, set the dough in a tin, or form it in the well-known “cottage” shape and bake.  

 

      I furnish this recipe for its “found poetry.”  At least that’s the way it seemed to me when I first read it, half-asleep on the daybed near Andy’s crate yesterday evening.  The two martinis I drank a little earlier at Paramour, the oddly named but excellent (as well as highly anticipated and wholeheartedly welcomed) restaurant in the Wayne Hotel, may have contributed to my poetry – bread recipe reverie.  Absolutely exhausted from a week of caring for our recuperating dog (we first visited Paramour the evening before Andy’s surgery, when everything seemed completely tenuous; we were already past exhaustion then from worry),  I fell asleep quickly (I think) and woke up with Wyvern’s verse - recipe still on my mind.

 

      I wasn’t sure what a “cottage” shaped bread loaf was, well-known as it might have been to Wyvern.  When I found pictures of one, I immediately recognized it as the type of loaf the character Marcus used when he (accidentally) killed the pond duck in About A Boy.  Although I normally strongly object to animals being used as comic props in this way, the incident develops into a funny, touching scene in an excellent, sensitive film, and it's clear that no actual duck was harmed in production.  I'm pleased to see that Nicholas Hoult, the young actor who played Marcus with such restraint and depth, is now definitely “hot,” "picked to click" and “poised for stardom,” as they say.

      Andy is doing very well – growing stronger every day, balance clearly re-balancing, attitude of a champion.  I will do my best to emulate him.

*N.b., Wyvern’s kneading instructions are rudimentary but, for the experienced bread baker, intuitive.  Essentially, he sensibly counsels against over-kneading and his loaves all seem to be of the “single-rise” variety.  The Great Man seems to provide no baking instructions, unusual for him, but I must admit I haven’t read this section of Culinary Jottings From Madras thoroughly.  

Another Great Man aka The Best Dressed Chicken In Town aka The Ital Surgeon aka Winston James Thompson

I Am Perfectly Aware

   
 
 
  

        I am perfectly aware that, in some instances, every species of obstruction will at first be thrust in the way of those who try to follow my advice, and, in others, that the change will be obeyed with reluctance.  But determination and tact combined will, I think, overcome opposition after a time, and the very malcontents themselves will end by praising the new regime.

From:  Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert (aka"Wyvern"), Culinary Jottings From Madras (5th edition, 1885).

Link: More Wyvern

Link: Wyvern 2

"Wyvern" -- Peach Fritters and Pickled Steak (From Culinary Jottings From Madras)

     

Hyderabad, 1893, Lord and Lady Wenlock; Lord Compton

        I began the year (referring to January 2nd's post) with a short excerpt from "Wyvern"'s extraordinary 1878 volume, Culinary Jottings From Madras, and his comments on hors d'oeuvres.   

        "Wyvern", you may recall,  was the nom-de-plume of Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert (b. 1840 - d. 1916), a British Indian Army officer who served in Bangalore in the south, Secunderabad (or Sikandarabad, British cantonment and neighbor to the royal city to Hyderabad) in the north, and other postings beginning in the 1860s, who wrote memorably and penetratingly about cooking and household management in a number of books, as well as in articles published in the Madras Athenaeum and the Daily News (India). 

Cubbon Hotel, Bangalore, late 19th century 

        Like most people interested in his Wyvern, I imagine, I first discovered him via Elizabeth David's books.  Rescuing and reviving interest in Colonel Kenney-Herbert and his Culinary Jottings From Madras is yet another reason we need to be grateful to Mrs. David and her pioneering, highly original work.

Willoughby Wallace Cooper, Stick Carriers, 1870

      The other day Caroline found the following recipe for Peach Fritters, which looks delicious and is also surprising because of its complimentary words about the tinned American peaches in syrup (a staple of both our childhoods), which were then available and highly esteemed in India.  Following, in a sleepy state, I was energized reading the recipe for Pickled Steak.  These two were not paired as part of the the same menu (Wyvern's menus for various occasions make excellent, stimulating reading), but I think they would go well together and we intend to try them out shortly.   They sound both traditional and contemporary, without seeming at all "retro", a term that would, I think, have repelled Wyvern, who was practical,  unpretentious and an enemy of the precious and frou-frou.

 Frederick Fiebag, Mosque in Madras, 1870

        As Caroline and I did two days ago, I'll begin with dessert, moving backwards to the entree:

Peach Fritters

 I. Beignets de Peche

(Peach Fritters)

        Wyvern's peach fritters sound sensational.  So do all his fritters -- sweet and savoury.  First, I think it would be wise to pass along his basic fritter advice: 

        "Failure in the accomplishment of the many excellent dishes which come under the head of 'fritters' may be fairly attributed to three things: the first, ignorance in making the batter; the second, a wrongly shaped utensil;  and the third, an insufficient use of the frying medium.  If you once master these cardinal points and can drum them into the head of your Ramasamy, you will have at your hand a tasty and, indeed, artistic method of cookery upon which you can always rely with confidence.  The charm of fritter cooking is its simplicity.  The mixing of a good batter merely depends upon the accurate following of the recipe before you, whilst the culinary operation itself presents no difficulty whatever, provided a liberal supply of fat be given out, and the vessel used a proper one.  The beginner, as a rule, overcomes this part of his education after a few trials, and thenceforward has no apprehension concerning success."

Now, on to:

         1. The Batter

        "I have adopted as a standard batter in my own kitchen one recommended by the 'G.C.', whose advice I have so often quoted in these pages.  Friends who have tried it at my recommendation have generally commended it.  You must proceed in this way:

        Beat up the yolks of three eggs with two table-spoonsful of brandy, one table-spoonful of the best salad oil, and four or five table-spoonsful of cold water.  Incorporate with this mixture three table-spoonsful of flour and a salt-spoonful of salt.  The flour should be dry, and the best imported.  Work this now, with care to a smooth paste, and continue to beat it for at least ten minutes.  If the batter appear too thick, add a little water until its consistency be satisfactory, i.e., it should cover the spoon when lifted out of it with the coating about an eighth of an inch thick.  This stage having been reached, take the whites of the three eggs, and whip them to a stiff froth; stir this into your batter at the time of using.

        Another good batter is made thus: -- Beat up equal parts of salad oil, and brandy, -- say a table-spoonful of each; and the yolk of an egg and incorporate with this, sufficient flour to make a thick paste which you thin to the required consistency by the addition of water, reserving the whipped white of the egg to finish with."

2. The Fritters

        "Cut the peaches (American ones in tin are excellent) into neat pieces; dust them with powdered sugar, and let them lie in a little maraschino, or any nice liqueur till wanted, then dip them in your batter, and fry them in abundance of boiling fat; drain them on blotting paper, and serve them dusted over with pounded loaf sugar finely sifted.  In the case of raw fruit, the peaches cut in halves, peeled and stoned, should be carefully stewed in syrup with a dash of liqueur and a little lime juice first, then set to get cold, and after being drained, dipped in batter, &c., as above explained.  All fritters should be served without delay."

Bangalore, late 19th century

II. Pickled Steak or Chops

        "Place a steak in a deep dish with a couple of onions sliced, a clove of garlic, pepper corns, salt, some leaves of thyme and marjoram, a bunch of parsley, and some lime peel.  Add oil and vinegar (two table-spoonsful full of former to one of the latter) sufficient to soak the meat well without actually covering it.  Let it soak all day; lift it, when wanted, from the marinade, and fry lightly in butter : then (when coloured on both sides nicely) pour in the marinade, with a breakfast cup of made gravy, and stew the steak gently till thoroughly done.-- Strain the liquor, free it from fat, reduce it a little over the fire, pour over the steak and serve.  This is just as good with a nice mutton steak, or a few juicy chops."

Upper:  Nizam of Hyderabad and Suite, 1870 

Lower: Nizam's Chowmahela Palace, Hyderabad

Wyvern excerpts taken from Culinary Jottings From Madras (5th edition, 1885; republished London, Prospect Books, 2007, ed. Leslie Forbes)

January 2nd -- "Wyvern" on Hors d'Oeuvres

     

    

        Now that it is January of a new year, I thought it might be appropriate to give a little bit of thought to little bits of beginnings. On this sure-to-be-slow day, which I began a couple of hours ago lying prone at the bottom of our driveway staring at the sky and hoping for better things after badly pulling my back shoveling snow, Chapter XXII of "Wyvern"'s Culinary Jottings From Madras (5th edition, 1885; republished London, Prospect Books, 2007, ed. Leslie Forbes) came to mind:

       "We must now consider these attractive accessories of an artistic dinner, luncheon or breakfast party, which, under the title hors d'oeuvres, are gradually becoming popular amongst English people whose minds have expanded under the beneficial influence of travel in foreign countries.  

Italian antipasto platter

      Hors d'oeuvres, as you all doubtless know, are little dainties, or kickshaws, carefully prepared, and tastefully served, which, on the continent, are offered to the diner to whet his appetite prior to the more important discussion of the banquet itself.  In Italy the service of these trifles under the title of "antipasto" precedes every meal as a standard custom.  We have not yet acquired this agreeable fashion, notwithstanding that the sending around of three or four oysters to each guest, with a slice of brown bread and butter, &;c., has for a long time, been no novelty in England, or in Madras.  Our custom, as a general rule, is to reserve the hors d'oeuvres to accompany the cheese, and to advocate a change would, I fear, be lost labour on the part of the author of these jottings.  As far as luncheon and breakfast parties are concerned, however, surely we might adopt the Italian custom as a novelty, and watch its effect upon our friends, before passing an opinion upon the suitability of the introduction?

Oysters at Rules, London

      Unlike the greater part of our culinary labours, this pretty item of our menu need cost us but little trouble.  We can obtain many excellent things wherewith to captivate the appetite, and we can make others which in their way are generally successful.  Olives farcies, olives plain, anchovies in oil, sardines, sliced Bologna sausage, preserved tunny, lax, lobster, cod's roes, seer-fish roes, reindeers tongues, ox tongue, devilled ham, potted meats, fancy butters, herrings a la sardine, pilchards in oil, caviare, oysters, pickles, cucumber, radishes, thin bread and butter, wafer biscuits, and last but not least, "Bombay ducks",  provide us with a goodly list from which to choose our tasty morsels".  

     "Wyvern"'s (the pseudonym of British colonial officer Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert, b. 1840 - d. 1916) work is a real masterpiece that deserves a fuller examination that I can afford to give it in my currently prostrated condition.  But as a New Year's tribute to him, here are a few hors d'oeuvre recipes from various international sources.  Writing about them (I mean to say, tapping this out on a laptop in bed, prone after crawling home slowly and painfully) removes my mind from present misery and transports me (and you also, I hope) to some lovely places:

Meshwiya

Meshwiya

This traditional Tunisian dish is served as a dip, or spread on small chunks of baguettes.  

3-4 tomatoes

1 green bell peper

1 tsp. salt

1 tbsp. cumin

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 tsp. lemon juice

1/4 - 1/2 cup olive oil to taste 

Traditionally, the tomato and pepper skins are removed by grilling over an open flame.  If you want to peel your vegetables, dip them into boiling water for a minute or so, and follow with a plunge into cold water.  The skins should slip off fairly easily.  Chop the peeled tomatoes and pepper into small chunks. 

Add the salt, cumin and crushed garlic.  If not eating immediately, store the mixture, covered, in the refrigerator.  Before serving, add lemon juice and oil.  

Variations:  Other common additions to Meshwiya are chunks of tuna, bits of black olive, and chopped hard- boiled eggs. 

From:  The Africa News Cookbook (New York, Penguin, 1985).

Flag and seal of Tunisia

Norman Douglas

Oyster Olive

Wrap each oyster after shelling it in a thin slice of lean bacon and fasten them with a wooden toothpick.  Put them in a baking pan and then into the hot oven till the bacon is cooked.  

Serve them with chopped parsley sprinkled over them, and a drop of Worcester sauce.

From:  Norman Douglas, Venus In The Kitchen (Surrey, Kingswood, 1952)

Nepaul pepper

Indian Savoury

Four ounces of Parmesan grated, two ounces of flour, a little butter, one salt-spoon of mustard, a little salt and Nepaul pepper; mix with a well-beaten egg or two, so that the mixture is like a paste; put it in the oven for a minute or two, and then lay it on nicely-cut pieces of toast; put it in the oven again for a minute, and brown the top over with a salamander.  Garnish with parsley.

From:  Norman Douglas, Venus In The Kitchen (Surrey, Kingswood, 1952)

Batter-fried Squash Blossoms 

Batter-Fried Squash Blossoms (Zuni Indian Recipe)

(a hot hors d'oeuvre for 8 persons)

Squash blossoms are considered the greatest of delicacies by the Zuni.  Choicest of all are the largest male flowers, which are carefully gathered from the vine, fried in deep fat, and served as an appetizer or used as a seasoning for vegetables, soups and stews.

8 dozen squash blossoms, picked as they are just about to open.  (Try to get as many male blossoms as possible; they are larger.) 

1 cup milk

1 tablespoon flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

1/2 cup cooking oil

Paprika (garnish)

1.  In a shaker jar, combine milk, flour, salt and pepper.

2.  Place squash blossoms in a large pie tin and gently pour the milk-flour mixture over them.

3.  Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet until a drop of water will sizzle.  Fry the batter-coated blossoms in the hot oil until golden brown.  Drain on paper towel and sprinkle with paprika.  Serve hot.

From:  Yeffe Kimball and Jean Anderson, The Art of American Indian Cooking (New York, Simon & Schuster, 1965).

Herring (above) and traditional Herring Canapes  (below)

A Herring Eye 

With a large wine glass stamp pieces of bread out of a slice of rye bread and butter them.  Around the edge of each build a wall of chopped spiced herrings.   Inside this a wall of minced whites of hardboiled eggs, then one of the minced egg yolks, then one of a good herring salad, and finally in the center of it all the yolk of a raw egg.  Or, if you wish to avoid having eggs twice, you may use minced chives between the spiced herring and the herring salad.  If you have some truly tasty fillets of anchovies you could use them as the outermost wall and would not need to chop then first since both knife and fork are used in eating canapes.  Of course you are at liberty to do away with the suggested kinds of herrings and use your own salted or pickled herrings.  The important point is that each canape is made with loving care and of the best ingredients you can get.

Asta Bang and Edith Rode, Open Sandwiches and Cold Lunches, An Introduction to Danish Culinary Art (Copenhagen, Jul. Gjellerups Forlag, 1953).

      Wyvern was completely correct regarding the delectable Bombay ducks, by the way.  I was first able to sample these dried, salted fish delicacies at the late, much-missed Taprobane Sri Lankan restaurant on West 56th Street in Manhattan.    Another subject for another time.  In the immortal words of Wreckless Eric's lapel pin, "I'm A Mess".  Happy New Year!

Desicated Bombay Duck ready for purchase

 Bombay Ducks that have been soaked and fried

Black pepper drying, Kochin, India